Tuesday, February 16, 2010

There's Just Something About Leeks ...


There's just something about leeks that set them apart from other Allium. Sure I love others in the genus such as chives and garlic (I mean, who could live without garlic!?) but leeks have a certain elegance and subtlety that the others lack. Grilled, roasted or braised, with a dash of cream or a drizzle of truffle oil, they're one of those foods you'd never dream was actually good for you. Leeks are rich in allicin, an organosulfur compound that in nature acts as the plants defense against pests. Allicin has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. Studies are ongoing as to how these compounds may prevent disease in humans.

The incredible Ann Miller, a popular gal in the Missouri wine industry, recently posted about buying leeks. It made me think of one of my favorite leek recipes from Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon. It was published in Bon Appétit several years back. Its perfect comfort-food yum on a cold February evening.

Risotto with Leeks, Shiitake Mushrooms, and Truffles

2 to 3 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), half and slice thin crosswise
3/4 cup whipping cream
About 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced lengthwise
1/4 c. butter, melted
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

For the risotto
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups arborio rice or medium-grain white rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 cups (or more) hot vegetable broth
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese (yeah, the real stuff)
2 teaspoons shaved or chopped black truffle (or sub Truffle Gatherers Sauce from fungusamongus.com)
Chopped fresh parsley

Bring leeks and cream to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until leeks are tender and cream is thick, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. (Special note - This can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Rewarm before continuing.) Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss shittakes, onion, butter, oil and thyme and place all ingredients on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are tender and light brown around edges, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. (Special note - this can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

To prepare the risotto -
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add rice; stir 1 minute. Add wine and stir until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup hot broth. Simmer until broth is almost absorbed, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding next and stirring often, until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes longer. Stir in leek mixture, mushroom mixture, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cheese, and truffle. Transfer to large bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

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