Nirvana in Purgatory

Nirvana in Purgatory may sound like a contradiction but nothing could be more heavenly than farm fresh eggs served in delightfully different ways. I recently ran across Mario Batali's Italian recipe for Uova in Purgatorio or Eggs in Purgatory on the Food Network site that appears to be very close to the original Italian recipe. Further searching revealed there were many tempting variations for this luscious dish. This blog showcases their version from The Sopranos Family Cookbook with great photos and this site offers a "southern" version which seems a bit more tex-mex than most.

If I decide to deviate from the Italian, I think I'll go with this interpretation. Found on several sites, including Bon Appetit, there's just something about this combo I find appealing.

Eggs in Purgatory with Artichoke Hearts, Potatoes, and Capers

* 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
* 1 1/2 cups chopped onion
* 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
* 1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
* Coarse kosher salt
* 1 8- to 10-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, drained
* 2 garlic cloves, minced
* 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted)
* 8 ounces red-skinned or white-skinned potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
* 2 tablespoons drained capers
* 8 large eggs
* 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preparation:
Heat olive oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add chopped onion, chopped thyme, and crushed red pepper; sprinkle lightly with coarse kosher salt and sauté until onion is tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add artichokes and minced garlic; stir 1 minute. Stir in diced tomatoes with juice and bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover skillet and simmer 15 minutes to allow flavors to blend.

Meanwhile, cook potatoes in small saucepan of boiling salted water just until tender, about 8 minutes. Drain. Add potatoes and capers to tomato-artichoke sauce; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Season to taste with coarse salt and pepper. DO AHEAD Tomato-artichoke sauce can be made up to 6 hours ahead. Cool slightly, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm sauce before continuing.
*
Preheat oven to 375°F. Pour tomato-artichoke sauce into 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Using back of spoon, make 8 evenly spaced indentations in sauce for holding eggs. Crack 1 egg into each indentation in sauce (some of eggs may run together slightly in spots). Bake until egg whites and yolks are softly set, 12 to 16 minutes. Carefully remove baking dish from oven; sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over and serve.

There's Just Something About Leeks ...

There's just something about leeks that set them apart from other Allium. Sure I love others in the genus such as chives and garlic (I mean, who could live without garlic!?) but leeks have a certain elegance and subtlety that the others lack. Grilled, roasted or braised, with a dash of cream or a drizzle of truffle oil, they're one of those foods you'd never dream was actually good for you. Leeks are rich in allicin, an organosulfur compound that in nature acts as the plants defense against pests. Allicin has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. Studies are ongoing as to how these compounds may prevent disease in humans.

The incredible Ann Miller, a popular gal in the Missouri wine industry, recently posted about buying leeks. It made me think of one of my favorite leek recipes from Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon. It was published in Bon Appétit several years back. Its perfect comfort-food yum on a cold February evening.

Risotto with Leeks, Shiitake Mushrooms, and Truffles

2 to 3 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), half and slice thin crosswise
3/4 cup whipping cream
About 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced lengthwise
1/4 c. butter, melted
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

For the risotto
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups arborio rice or medium-grain white rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 cups (or more) hot vegetable broth
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese (yeah, the real stuff)
2 teaspoons shaved or chopped black truffle (or sub Truffle Gatherers Sauce from fungusamongus.com)
Chopped fresh parsley

Bring leeks and cream to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until leeks are tender and cream is thick, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. (Special note - This can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Rewarm before continuing.) Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss shittakes, onion, butter, oil and thyme and place all ingredients on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are tender and light brown around edges, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. (Special note - this can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

To prepare the risotto -
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add rice; stir 1 minute. Add wine and stir until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup hot broth. Simmer until broth is almost absorbed, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding next and stirring often, until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes longer. Stir in leek mixture, mushroom mixture, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cheese, and truffle. Transfer to large bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Don't Like Missouri Wine?

You've been sipping on the wrong stuff, sugar.

I recently attended a Norton vertical tasting at the Midwest Grape and Wine Conference presented by Thomas Held of Stone Hill Winery in Hermann and Glenn Bardgett, Wine Director at Annie Gunn's in St. Louis.

As I first brought that beautiful Norton Riedel glass to my nose, savored the aroma and tasted the 2000 Norton, the thought "Rhone" danced out of the glass. I was astounded by just that touch of brett, probably 4-ethyl guaiacol, that gave it an earthy complexity. Some may have said it was just a smidgen beyond its prime but I didn't notice and would have bought a couple of cases then and there.

Being surrounded by wine professionals with a combined experience of centuries makes one shy and humble. I was not about to offer my opinion or to mention a word about southern France. Privately, I felt a bit vindicated as Glenn Bardgett gave his opinion. He explained that we sell Missouri wines short when we compare them to other grapes; if we say one is closest to Chardonnay or Pinot Gris we're not really giving an accurate description. He felt that good Missouri wines have more of a regional character and if you must compare, the wines reflect more of a Southeastern France or Northwestern Italy regional taste.

The 2007 Stonehill is also one to buy and cellar for a couple of years. I plan on making a trip to Hermann soon. :)

Midwest Grape and Wine Conference

I'm currently looking out over my balcony taking a short break from all the happenings at the Midwest Grape and Wine Conference held at the Lake of the Ozarks in Osage Beach, Missouri. As always, the educational opportunities are wonderful but its the human element that make this event worth attending year after year. Those outside of the Missouri wine industry would hardly guess that professionals from UC Davis, VA Tech, Ohio State, Cornell and around the world frequent this conference. Last night I was overjoyed to find myself in conversation with Dr. Ann Noble, an expert in the sensory evaluation of wine. She's best known for her development of the Wine Aroma Wheel , a wonderful tool that helps identify aroma characteristics of wine. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned lover of wine, the Wine Wheel is a must-have gadget guaranteed to help you fully appreciate what you're sipping.

I was also happy to finally meet Dr. Marco Li Calzi who recently joined the Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture and Enology at the University of Missouri. Marco relocated from Italy to head the enology program at MU. I've already hinted to him about presenting an Italian wine tasting. Last but not least, Kendall Jackson was kind enough to send us the fun Allan Samuelson. Not only did he present a tasting of some great chardonnay and pinot, his gregarious nature and obvious devotion to food and wine has put him on many "friends" lists at the conference. He's just one of those guys you can't help but like.

Next up - more presentations and finally the Grand Banquet. Stay tuned.