Saturday, February 13, 2010

Don't Like Missouri Wine?

You've been sipping on the wrong stuff, sugar.

I recently attended a Norton vertical tasting at the Midwest Grape and Wine Conference presented by Thomas Held of Stone Hill Winery in Hermann and Glenn Bardgett, Wine Director at Annie Gunn's in St. Louis.

As I first brought that beautiful Norton Riedel glass to my nose, savored the aroma and tasted the 2000 Norton, the thought "Rhone" danced out of the glass. I was astounded by just that touch of brett, probably 4-ethyl guaiacol, that gave it an earthy complexity. Some may have said it was just a smidgen beyond its prime but I didn't notice and would have bought a couple of cases then and there.

Being surrounded by wine professionals with a combined experience of centuries makes one shy and humble. I was not about to offer my opinion or to mention a word about southern France. Privately, I felt a bit vindicated as Glenn Bardgett gave his opinion. He explained that we sell Missouri wines short when we compare them to other grapes; if we say one is closest to Chardonnay or Pinot Gris we're not really giving an accurate description. He felt that good Missouri wines have more of a regional character and if you must compare, the wines reflect more of a Southeastern France or Northwestern Italy regional taste.

The 2007 Stonehill is also one to buy and cellar for a couple of years. I plan on making a trip to Hermann soon. :)

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