There's Just Something About Leeks ...

There's just something about leeks that set them apart from other Allium. Sure I love others in the genus such as chives and garlic (I mean, who could live without garlic!?) but leeks have a certain elegance and subtlety that the others lack. Grilled, roasted or braised, with a dash of cream or a drizzle of truffle oil, they're one of those foods you'd never dream was actually good for you. Leeks are rich in allicin, an organosulfur compound that in nature acts as the plants defense against pests. Allicin has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. Studies are ongoing as to how these compounds may prevent disease in humans.

The incredible Ann Miller, a popular gal in the Missouri wine industry, recently posted about buying leeks. It made me think of one of my favorite leek recipes from Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon. It was published in Bon Appétit several years back. Its perfect comfort-food yum on a cold February evening.

Risotto with Leeks, Shiitake Mushrooms, and Truffles

2 to 3 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), half and slice thin crosswise
3/4 cup whipping cream
About 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced lengthwise
1/4 c. butter, melted
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

For the risotto
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups arborio rice or medium-grain white rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 cups (or more) hot vegetable broth
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese (yeah, the real stuff)
2 teaspoons shaved or chopped black truffle (or sub Truffle Gatherers Sauce from fungusamongus.com)
Chopped fresh parsley

Bring leeks and cream to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until leeks are tender and cream is thick, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. (Special note - This can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Rewarm before continuing.) Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss shittakes, onion, butter, oil and thyme and place all ingredients on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are tender and light brown around edges, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. (Special note - this can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

To prepare the risotto -
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add rice; stir 1 minute. Add wine and stir until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup hot broth. Simmer until broth is almost absorbed, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding next and stirring often, until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes longer. Stir in leek mixture, mushroom mixture, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cheese, and truffle. Transfer to large bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Don't Like Missouri Wine?

You've been sipping on the wrong stuff, sugar.

I recently attended a Norton vertical tasting at the Midwest Grape and Wine Conference presented by Thomas Held of Stone Hill Winery in Hermann and Glenn Bardgett, Wine Director at Annie Gunn's in St. Louis.

As I first brought that beautiful Norton Riedel glass to my nose, savored the aroma and tasted the 2000 Norton, the thought "Rhone" danced out of the glass. I was astounded by just that touch of brett, probably 4-ethyl guaiacol, that gave it an earthy complexity. Some may have said it was just a smidgen beyond its prime but I didn't notice and would have bought a couple of cases then and there.

Being surrounded by wine professionals with a combined experience of centuries makes one shy and humble. I was not about to offer my opinion or to mention a word about southern France. Privately, I felt a bit vindicated as Glenn Bardgett gave his opinion. He explained that we sell Missouri wines short when we compare them to other grapes; if we say one is closest to Chardonnay or Pinot Gris we're not really giving an accurate description. He felt that good Missouri wines have more of a regional character and if you must compare, the wines reflect more of a Southeastern France or Northwestern Italy regional taste.

The 2007 Stonehill is also one to buy and cellar for a couple of years. I plan on making a trip to Hermann soon. :)

Midwest Grape and Wine Conference

I'm currently looking out over my balcony taking a short break from all the happenings at the Midwest Grape and Wine Conference held at the Lake of the Ozarks in Osage Beach, Missouri. As always, the educational opportunities are wonderful but its the human element that make this event worth attending year after year. Those outside of the Missouri wine industry would hardly guess that professionals from UC Davis, VA Tech, Ohio State, Cornell and around the world frequent this conference. Last night I was overjoyed to find myself in conversation with Dr. Ann Noble, an expert in the sensory evaluation of wine. She's best known for her development of the Wine Aroma Wheel , a wonderful tool that helps identify aroma characteristics of wine. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned lover of wine, the Wine Wheel is a must-have gadget guaranteed to help you fully appreciate what you're sipping.

I was also happy to finally meet Dr. Marco Li Calzi who recently joined the Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture and Enology at the University of Missouri. Marco relocated from Italy to head the enology program at MU. I've already hinted to him about presenting an Italian wine tasting. Last but not least, Kendall Jackson was kind enough to send us the fun Allan Samuelson. Not only did he present a tasting of some great chardonnay and pinot, his gregarious nature and obvious devotion to food and wine has put him on many "friends" lists at the conference. He's just one of those guys you can't help but like.

Next up - more presentations and finally the Grand Banquet. Stay tuned.

Vote With Your Fork

Michael Pollen on Oprah reminds us we have to change agricultural policy and the way we support farmers. When we vote with our forks, we get three votes a day.

Remembrance

Today is Holocaust Remembrance Day, a designation given to mark the anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz-Birkenau 65 years ago by the Soviet Red Army. When I first saw the Holocaust Survivor Cookbook, I was momentarily taken back. It was hard for me to associate a time of food shortage, unthinkable starvation and terror with food and a collection of recipes. Finally it came to me that my first reaction was precisely why such a cookbook was needed.

Our first reassurance is being fed. Held in loving arms, our basic needs are met and all seems right with the world. Cooking and preparing food is an act of generosity and an expression of love. We grow up remembering the cookies lovingly baked, the soup that was made for us when we were sick, the celebratory meals and special dishes made for holidays and family get-togethers. In my heart and memory, the world's most perfect sugar cookies belong to my Aunt. Vegetable soup always makes me think of my mother and although I've never tasted any to match, pan-fried chicken always brings loving memories of my Grandmother.

Many of the survivors of the Holocaust who contributed to this cookbook were able to honor the families they lost by the contribution of family recipes. The dishes and the hands that prepared them were a part of their family's time of togetherness and a statement of their love for one another. There is no doubt those memories played a part in survival of many. Food related traditions are as important of a legacy as any memento and they need to be preserved. The cookbook does exactly that. All proceeds of the cookbook go to charitable organizations.

Mad for crazy cake - latimes.com

Cooking and wine making share the all important, if unanswerable question - is it an art or a science?

Some will tell you it is both. I might answer that it is science that is the art. Meanwhile check out this recipe and article from the LA Times.

Mad for crazy cake - latimes.com

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Braised Short Ribs Recipe - Tom Colicchio | Food & Wine

I love this recipe; especially because you can make it up to two days ahead and it only makes it better. Try it with a parmesean polenta. Yum.

Braised Short Ribs Recipe - Tom Colicchio | Food & Wine

Polar Chill

As many gardeners, farmers and vinters well know, the United States Department of Agriculture has given us this nifty little tool called a zone hardiness map. It divides the US into eleven hardiness zones; each zone ten degrees warmer or colder than the next. The designations are based on the average annual minimum temperature or the coldest temps that can be expected in that area.

I've long been interested in grape cultivar selection and breeding as they relate to the Missouri climate. In 2006 the area where I live increased from Zone 5 to Zone 6 on the USDA hardiness map. This map at the National Arbor Day site demonstrates the changes that took place nationwide. The most familiar wines on store shelves such as chardonnay, merlot and cabernet, come from grapes that belong to a family called vitis vinifera. They're grown in milder climates such as California, Italy or France. Up until recently, these vines were almost unheard of in Missouri but there have been many vineyards in the Midwest pushing the envelope with good success.

As in many other parts of the country, 2010 has brought record breaking cold to Missouri. With temperatures hovering near zero, last week we went to -4F in Boone County. Last night set a record -12F. The last time it came close to this low was in 1962 at a full six degrees warmer. St. Louis experienced its first below zero temperatures in a decade. Other areas of Missouri have recorded even lower temps. While there are many factors that influence how well a vine might fare through a difficult winter, there are no doubt many grape growers anxious about this extreme weather. Research indicates hybrid grapes can experience bud injury below -5F and once temperatures drop to below -10F, things can become critical. On the other hand, vitis vinfera is a different story. Some report Cabernet Franc and Riesling as two of the most hardy, yet they are only considered so down to about -5F. Once you reach around around -12F to -16F there may be significant injury.

I am concerned about my fledgling vines. I planted rooted cuttings in nursery beds last spring but I also planted some in pots. Those pots are mulched in frames which will afford them some protection. I can only hope that protection is enough. There's really no use in being consumed by anxiety. We can't control the weather nor can we change the cold.

Who Doesn't Love A Blended Deal?

Other than reading up on viticulture or wistfully browsing seed catalogs, the January cold and cabin fever affords the opportunity to sip and tell on a few fortuitous wine finds.

Its going quickly, but the 2006 Bleasdale Langhorn Crossing is something to snatch up by the case. Offered for around a mere ten bucks a bottle in many locales, this Cab/Malbec/Shiraz/Petit Verdot blend offers a superb drinkability with fruit and mineral notes that belie its oh-so-modest price tag. Plainly, for the price you won't find much better. Hate me, but I found it for $9 a bottle.

Another blend that offers a lot of wow for the buck is the Chilean 2006 Concha Y Toro Winemaker's Lot. It boasts a meld of Cab, Carmenere and Syrah grapes. Word is that Robert Parker gave it an 89. I'll call it a deal simply because its a wonderful wine for a reasonable price at less than ten bucks a bottle.

Oh and not to forget is the 2006 Jumilla Altos De La Hoya. It may be the hardest to find of the three but its far from third place in the trio. At less than $12 and made from Monastrell (Mouvedre) grapes, this Spanish gem speaks of bramble fruits and something deeper, like dark chocolate. Simply a really good wine at a great price.

Cooking in November

One of the most delightful things about having a garden is being able to casually stroll out and gather herbs while preparing a meal. This year was the first time I was able to continue to do that through the month of November. Adding to that pleasure was the glow from the outdoor oven as the pork loin and root vegetables were roasting their way to wood smoked nirvana. Mother Nature must have known I waited a long time for this outdoor kitchen. She's indulging me with mild weather for a late season feast.

You'll be reading many future posts about wood-oven cooking. For now, check out these sites for more information on wood fired ovens and their tantalizing recipes.

Forno Bravo

Los Angeles Oven Works

Traditional Ovens

Macaroni Mary

I was never a huge macaroni and cheese fan, perhaps because for far too long it had often conjured up the image and taste of the stuff from the box. However, in honor of my dear friend Mary and the fabulous baked mac and cheese I had at her house last year, I've been experimenting around with recipes. Here's my best effort so far. Its flexible enough to experiment around with, so get your "Julia" on and go for it.

• 16 ounces elbow macaroni
• 3/4 cup evaporated milk
• 2 eggs
• 1 (8 ounce) container sour cream
• 1 teaspoon seasoning salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
  
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 3 cups shredded Cheddar cheese (or try various combinations of Cheddar, Monterrey Jack, Pepper Jack, Gruyere, a bit of Gorgonzola or Brie)
  
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese mixed with 1/2 cup of bread crumbs
  
• 3 tablespoons butter

Preheat oven to 350F. Bring a large pot of water to boil, adding a bit of salt. Add macaroni, cooking to al dente, about ten minutes. Drain and rinse with cool water.
In a bowl mix milk, eggs, sour cream and seasonings. Place macaroni in baking dish, gently incorporate cheese and milk mixture until pan is full. Sprinkle Parmesan and bread crumbs over the top and drizzle on melted butter. Bake for 30 minutes or until milk mixture is done.

The Cultivation of Truffles

Back in May, in posting about our travels in Europe, I mentioned the importance of experience and how that might relate to local food. The food and wine industry are replete with examples that were once exclusive to one locale, later to be adapted to another. Truffles were once only a delicacy of Europe, but several enterprises are working to bring their cultivation to American shores.

Garland Truffles introduces itself as the "oldest and first successful grower of truffles in the Western Hemisphere. It is the only nursery in the United States that has grown and sold trees that are in production."

Sadly, don't look for these in Missouri anytime soon. As explained by New World Truffieres, truffles mature between December and the end of February. If its cold enough for the soil to freeze, they can be damaged. Unfortunately, Missouri weather is much too extreme for their production. New World reports that more southern parts of the Midwest, northern parts of the Southeast, parts of the Mid Atlantic States and a long strip along the West Coast in California, Oregon and Washington are possibilities, given the right conditions. Other areas may be suitable, including parts of Texas, Oklahoma, Idaho, and Southwest British Columbia.